April 11, 2014

Perfumes by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez

Perfumes by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez
The guide

[Luca is a connoisseur in perfume field and he is the first person decoded perfumes in readable  format! This book lists almost all the famous perfumes and his ratings. I am only listing the top-notch ones (Masterpiece)

what are eau de toilette, eau de perfum and parfum?
Pure perfume is dissolved in a solution of 98% alcohol and 2% water, the preferred solvent. Different concentration of perfume oil are sold under different names: eau de toilette (EdT) is around 10% perfume oil, eau de perfum (EdP) somewhere around 15-18% and parfum (also known as extrait) 25 % and higher. parfume de toilette is generally the same as eau de perfum, body sprays and eaux de cologne are usually lighter than eau de toilette

If you don’t care about the packaging but love fragrance, get plain glass pump atomizers which you can buy easily online. They don’t spill and they protect the fragrance from air and give a measured dose

Do fragrances change according to the wearer’s chemistry?
For a long time, LT (Luca Turin) believed the answer to be absolutely no, yet perfumers do test fragrances on various people’s skins as they develop them, so the variation must make some difference. Esp. individual skins seem to affect the top notes, but after a half hour or so, when the fragrance heat emerges, these minor differences seem to disappear.

31 Rue Cambon *Chanel) - Floral ambery
In the press pack for 31 Rue Cambon, Chanel boasts of having composed a chypre fragrance without the sine qua non: oakmoss, a resin extracted from a lacy lichen that looks something like fristee and grows mainly on oak trees in eastern Europe

100% Love (S-Perfume) Chocolate Rose
In case anyone still wondered, given the stellar record of great perfume impresarios like Vera Strubi (Angel), and Chantal Roos (Opium), niche firms have demonstrated beyond doubt how important art direction is to getting a perfume right.

L!Air du Desert Marocain (Tauer Perfumes) - Incense oriental

The sweet smell of amber, the foundation of the classic perfume oriental, has long been weighed down with vanilla and sandalwood, decorated with mulling spices, bolstered with musk, made come-hither ready for its close-up.

Ambre Sultan (Serge Lutens) Herbal Amber
(This is not masterpiece, but just recommended)
The fragrant resin blend known as amber, found in MIddle Eastern perfume shops and hippie stores all over. What distinguishes Ambre Sultan is a high rose of fantastic dried-herb smells which give it in the top, a dusty, salty, outdoor air, before the more familiar vanillic balsam plot takes over.

Amouage Gold (Amouage) huge floral
The firm was started by senior member of Omani royal family to restore the tri-millennial tradition of perfume in Oman. This perfume is about texture rather than structure, a hundred flying carpets of scent overlapping each other. It’s as if Joy had eloped with Scheherazade for a thousand and one nights of illicit fun.

Angel (Thierry Mugler) Fruity patchouli

Apre`s L'Ondee (Guerlain) heavenly heliotrope
One of the twenty greatest perfumes of all time.

Aromatics Elixir (Clinique) woody floral

Azuree (Estee Lauder) citrus leather

Azzaro Homme (Azzaro) anisic lavender

Badgley Mischka (Badgley Mischka) gorgeous fruity

Bandit(Robert Piguet) bitter chypre

Beyond Paradise (Estee Lauder) symphonic floral
Beyond Paradise for Men (Estee Lauder) green woody

Black (Bulgari) hot rubber

Bois de Violette (Serge Lutens) woody oriental

Bois des Iles (Chanel) sandalwood oriental

Calandre (Paco Rabanne) aldehydic floral

Calyx (Prescriptives) guava rose

Ca Sent Beau (Kenzo) tangerine fougere

Chamade (Guerlain) powdery floral

Chinatown (Bond no:9) gourmand chypre

Cool water (Davidoff) aromatic fougere

Cristalle (Chanel) citrus chypre

Cuir de Russie (Chanel) leather luxury

Derby (Guerlain) smoky wood

Diorella (Dior) woody citrus

Dune (Dior) fresh oriental

Dzing (L’Artisan Parfumeur) vanilla cardboard

Eau de Guerlain (Guerlain) citrus verbena

Eau Sauvage (Dior) citrus floral

Enlevement au Serail (Parfums MDCI) peach jasmine

Envy (Gucci) green floral

Le Feu d'issey (Issey Miyake) milky rose

Fracas ( Robert Piguet) butter tuberose

Givenchy III (Givenchy) green chypre

Green Flannel (Geoffrey Beene) sweet green

Habit Rouge (Guerlain ) sweet dust

L’Heure Bleue (Guerlain) dessert air

Insense (Givenchy) masculine floral

Invasion Barbare (Parfums MDCI) spicy woody

Iris Silver Mist (Serge Lutens)  iris root

Jicky (Guerlain) lavender vanilla (oldest famous perfume)
Joy parfum (Jean Patou) symphonic floral

Knowing (Estee Lauder) mossy rose

Kouros (YSL) musky fougere

Lavender (Caldey Island) perfect lavender

Lolita Lempicka (Lolita Lempicka) herbal Angel

Loulou (Cacharel) jasmine oriental

Missoni (Missoni) kaleidoscopic floral

Mitsouko (Guerlain) reference chypre

MoslBuddJewChristHinDao(Elternhaus) woody floral

La Myrrhe (Serge Lutens) resinous aldehydic

Naheme (Guerlain) virtual rose

New York (Parfums de Nicolai) orange amber

No: 5 eau de toilette (Chanel) peachy floral

No: 5 parfum (Chanel) powdery floral

Odalisque (Parfums de Nicolai) fresh chypre

Opium (YSL) spice king

Ormonde Man (Ormonde Jayne) green woody

Ormonde Woman (Ormonde Jayne) forest chypre

Osmanthe Yunnan (Hermes) milky tea

Patchouli 24 (Le Labo) strange leather

Pleasures (Estee Lauder) snowy floral

Poison (Dior) huge tuberose

Pour Monsieur (Chanel) masculine chypre

Pour un Homme (Caron) lavender vanilla

Private Collection (Estee Lauder) floral chypre

Promesse de L’Aube (parfums MDCI) peach rose

Rive Gauche (YSL) reference rose

Rusg (Gucci) lactonic chypre

Samsara (Guerlain) sandalwood jasmine

Sarrasins (Serge Lutens) leather floral

Scent (Theo Fennell) saffron musk

Secretion Magnifiques (Etat Libre d’orange) nautical floral

S-eX(S-Perfume) space leather

Sex appeal for men (Jovan) herbal oriental (not a masterpiece, but recommended)

Shalimar (Guerlain) reference oriental (one of the most famous perfumes)

Le Temps d'une fete (Parfums de Nicolai) green narcissus

Timbuktu (L”Artisan Parfumeur) woody smoky

Tocade (Rochas) rose vanilla

Tommy Girl (Tommy Hilfiger) tea floral

Le Troisieme Homme (Caron) jasmini fougere

Vanilla (L'Artisan Parfumeur) candyfloss vanilla

Vol de Nuit (Guerlain) woody oriental

White Linen (Estee Lauder)  aldehydic floral

Yatagan (Caron) woody oriental

Yohji Homme (Yohji Yamamoto) licorice fougere

Best feminine perfumes:
Apres L'Ondee
Bois de Violette
L’Heure Bleue
Rive Gauche

Best masculine perfumes
Azzaro pour Homme
Beyond Paradise Men
Cool water
Eau de Guerlain
Habit Rouge
New York
Ormonde Men
Pour Monsieur

Best floral perfumes:
Amouage Gold
Beyond Paradise
Osmanthe Yunnan
Private collection Tuberose Gardenia
Promesse de l’Aube
Rive Gauche

Best orientals perfumes:
Ambre Sultan
L’Heure Bleue
La Myrrhe
Patchouli 24
Vol de Nuit

Best loud fragrances:
Badgley Mischka
Carnal Flower
Lolita Lempicka

best quite fragrances
Apres L’Ondee
Bois d'Encens
Comme des Garcons 3
Lavender (Caldey island)
Lime Basil & Mandarin
Osmanthe Yunnan

Best chypres perfumes:
31 Rue Cambon
Aromatics Elixir
Givenchy III
Jubilation 25
Pour Monsieur

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